Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya
Founded in 1821 on a loop of the Mahaweli. The orchid house at dawn, the giant Java fig, and the long avenue of royal palms — a 147-acre catalogue of the tropics.
Ceylon Gardens Quarterly is an independent journal about the botanical gardens, tea estates and highland flora of Sri Lanka. Long-form essays, field notes and hand-drawn plates from Peradeniya to Hakgala, and every misted hillside in between.
Founded in 1821 on a loop of the Mahaweli. The orchid house at dawn, the giant Java fig, and the long avenue of royal palms — a 147-acre catalogue of the tropics.
Second oldest in the country, laid out in 1861 as a cinchona experiment. Roses and pines above 1,700m, and the fog that arrives at four every afternoon.
The Henarathgoda garden where H.K. Rutherford planted the first Pará rubber saplings from Kew in 1876 — the seed of an industry, still standing.
Volunteer-led replanting on the southern lagoons: how a community turned three kilometres of dead shoreline into a working nursery in six years.
The invasive shrub that colonised the valley in a decade — what estate managers, ecologists and one very patient monk are trying to do about it.
Eleven thousand hectares of endemic tree cover on the Ratnapura side. A walk with a WHT ranger, and the birds that only sing in this one forest.
The pluckers are on the slope by six. The bushes — Camellia sinensis assamica, chest-high, planted in the 1890s — line the contour like a page ruled in green. Two leaves and a bud, no more, no less. A good picker moves 22 kilograms of leaf a day.
The factory sits above the estate, red iron roof, sixteen withering troughs, the same rolling machines the Marshall works in Gainsborough delivered ninety years ago. It still smells of hot leaf and old timber at seven in the morning.
An account of one November week on a smallholding above Nanu Oya — the pickers, the field officer, the tasters at the auction floor in Colombo, and the long, quiet chain that lifts a leaf from a hillside into a cup.
Read the feature →Ceylon Gardens Quarterly is reader-supported, printed in Colombo on uncoated 120gsm paper, and sent out the first week of March, June, September and December.